Backstage: Orla Kiely AW13

Florrie White using Bobbi Brown: The Orla Kiely woman for this collection is sort of a ‘done Secretary’. Our first reference was Bridget Bardot – that ’60s emphasis on the eyes, groomed, but with an effortless feel. I wanted the models to look like they had applied the makeup themselves; it’s a full makeup, but very free at the same time. Not all the same shades were used on the all models, everything’s applied on an individual basis – I wanted to team to feel at ease with their instincts and go with what they felt right. My favourite product from the look is the Long-Wear Cream Shadow Sticks, out in the UK in March. So blendable and pigmented. I used Golden Pink in the inner corner and Bark to get the winged shape of the eye. I then built up the colour using shadows from this palette we made up for the show, containing: Cocoa, Hot Stone, Blonde, Rich Brown, Taupe and Mahogany, the combination we used depended on the models colouring and eye shape. I wanted to keep the waterline clear to keep the empahsis on the shadow, but really layered up the mascaras. I first put on Everything Mascara, then applied Extreme Party Mascara just to the outer corners – almost building it up to look like they had eyelash extensions on. We toned down the cheeks from the original trials we did, so today I’m just doing a light blush, using a trio of Desert Pink, Desert Rose and Nude Peach depending on the girls complexion with the Shimmer Brick Compact in Rose on the cheekbones to tie-in that pink inner corner highlight. For lips I added an undone hue patted in with my fingers mixing Pale Pink and Beige Gold Lip Colours. I think I’m going to grab the models just before they walk to apply a dusting of blush to the temples – I love that finishing touch!

Defined eyes, naturally pinched cheeks and a natural nude colour on the lips – the three makeup rules that the lady herself preaches – Bobbi would be proud. This was the first time the Bobbi Brown team had made-up the models for a LFW show and a lovely team they were too; plus I think I’ve found a new makeup chum in Florrie. Definitely worth the 6am wakeup call.